Chef breaks down patis, mushroom similarities inspiring new pizza

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Matthew Navarro, executive chef of Italian restaurant Sicilian Roast, broke down in a seeded interview to Philstar.com the similarities that patis and mushroom have when it comes to flavor.

"They taste completely different, but they hit the same part of your palate. It's that deep, savory taste that makes you want another spoonful of rice," Navarro said about umami which is also found in Bagoong and Toyo.

The chef explained that Patis and Bagoong get that savory taste from fermentation when fish or shrimp breaks down over time and releases glutamate, the source of the said taste.

Mushrooms, on the other hand, naturally have glutamate and can be taken from cooking them.

Navarro believes Filipinos' taste for umami is evident when pairing Bagoong with Green Mango, Patis and Tinola, or Toyo and Adobo, "We grew up with umami on the table. We just never called it that."

Mushrooms also play well into the Filipino palate, with the chef citing Adobong Kabute as an example as it has both toyo and mushrooms, and the latter has another compound that boosts glutamate.

"When you dry fish or mushrooms, the water leaves and the flavor gets concentrated," Navarro said about drying. "That's why Tuyo tastes stronger than fresh fish, and why a few dried shiitake can flavor a whole pot of soup."

All these served as an inspiration for his new Five Mushroom Pizza available at Sicilian Roast until the end of the year, stacking mushroom flavors as if there was Patis in the dish.

"The base is a mushroom cream made from Button and Porcini, and on top there’s Seared Portobello, Roasted Shimeji, Crispy Oyster mushrooms and a little Porcini dust," shared the chef. "There's no Patis in it, but it's the same idea: layering savory flavors so every bite tastes full."

Navarro ended by advising others to add Toyo whenever making Adobong Kabute or sautéing mushrooms with garlic in order to get a more savory taste from the mushrooms.

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