This little-known Catalan city is like Barcelona — without the tourists - The Times

In Catalonia, Barcelona hogs the limelight when it comes to modernisme, that fantastical Spanish strain of art nouveau which flourished across Europe before the First World War. Antoni Gaudí’s psychedelic building façades and the gargantuan Sagrada Familia church lure the masses. But 90 minutes south by bus there’s another place with similarly flamboyant architecture, if on a smaller scale, which draws far fewer holidaymakers: Reus, the perfect Catalan weekend break you’ve never heard of.

Gaudí may have made his professional name in the Catalan capital, but it is Reus that claims him as its most famous son. Born in 1852, he grew up there, dying in Barcelona in 1926 (to mark a century since the architect’s death, Reus is hosting a series of talks and exhibitions throughout the year).

Reus is a city of lovely medieval alleys, chattery with late-night bars and restaurants, and it has plenty of modernista shops, townhouses and civic structures. Commissioned by the classes who prospered thanks to the vermouth industry, they were built by the great architects of the day. Need another reason to stick the city on your tick list? New nonstop flights from the UK, which started in the summer.

The architect’s secrets are revealed at the Gaudí Centre (£10; spain.info) via tactile exhibits that are a dream for children. Hand-operated devices twist to show how the architect understood weight and space, while 3D models of his Barcelona buildings demonstrate his unique approach to masonry. Expect surprises about his early life in Reus, and his fanbase, from Dalí to Gehry. 

Reus’s great gothic church looms like a galleon, seeming to shove the tiny surrounding streets aside with its sandstone bulk. Gaudí pilgrims surround the chapel where he was baptised, while the fearless sweat up the 130 claustrophobic corkscrew steps to stand among the huge bells, with 360-degree views across mountains and sea.

Reus has a long history of vermouth production and makes some of the world’s best. The Museu Del Vermut has a vast stash of memorabilia, from retro Japanese trays to Argentine posters (free; museudelvermut.com). Consider eating at the museum’s suave restaurant — irresistible dishes range from salmon tartare to braised beef cheek, and there’s plenty of the red stuff. 

Among Europe’s most dramatic art nouveau buildings, Casa Navas dominates Plaça del Mercadal like a fairytale townhouse with its endless mosaicked rooms and bulbous main window projecting over the square. The Barcelona architect Lluis Domenech i Montaner completed it in 1908 and memorable highlights include a pianola playing old tunes, daffodil motifs in stained glass and an ornate olive-wood hearth (£13; casanavas.cat).

A 30-minute bus (£3) from Reus will take you to the city the Romans called Tarraco, where an amphitheatre framed by palm gardens curls before the Med. In the Part Alta (old town), a colossal cathedral fills the sky. The fishing quarter, El Serrallo, is a great place to stop for succulent sea bass and prawns — try the family-run L’Ancora (mains from £15; ancoradelserrallo.es).

As well as Casa Navas, Reus brims with whimsical works from the turn of the 20th century when modernisme gripped a wealthy Catalonia. Take a route map from the tourist office and head on a balmy early-evening wander. Unmissable stops include the baronial Casa Rull, with its kooky turrets, and Casa Bartoli, not unlike an enormous Wall’s Viennetta cast in stone. 

In a workaday neighbourhood, this busy corner joint of utilitarian floor tiles and sturdy wooden chairs serves filling comfort classics that delight a devoted crowd. The patatas bravas come with a fine creamy-spicy sauce, and the oxtail stew, rabo de toro, is a mop-it-up winner (mains from £11; braseriatoribio.com).

A family vermouth factory founded 125 years ago is now this smart street-corner restaurant overseen by the founder’s great-grandson Salvador. Soul music drifts around the parador-like timber and whitewash interior. Dishes to order include crayfish casserole and beef entrecôte. The house tipple is a bracing bittersweet hit (mains from £14; vermutsrofes.com).

Claret walls, chequerboard flooring and low lights lend this backstreet haunt a boudoir feel, with frosted divider panes creating alcoves where couples murmur. Upstairs there’s a dining room where groups gather for rounds of tapas until late. But nothing beats a quick order of giant gooey croquetas on the humming ground floor, eased down with a gin and tonic or negroni (cocktails from £6; elcafedereus.cat).

Here’s one of those first-night-in-Spain classics, right on Plaça del Mercadal. Take a seat outside and people-watch over starters of sea bream tartare or gazpacho followed by grilled cuttlefish from nearby Cambrils or Iberian pork tenderloin (two-course menu £15; casacoder.com).

On a main road circling the historic core is this happy find: a time-warp tapas bar with fake tulips, nostalgic signage and lovely staff. Regulars on its bar stools pick from tureens of anchovies steeped in green oil, tortilla and battered lobster bites, invariably adding a clara (beer topped with lemonade) (tapas from £4).

This matchbox-size watering hole in the shadow of Sant Pere is never not busy. Below the raftered ceiling, regulars huddle on high stools around tables, getting boisterous on vino tinto and hoppy Galician cervezas with cheeseboards and iberico ham — all to a low, clubby throb on the speakers (drinks from £2; @lamagatallreus).

Three-star with church viewsHere is a three-star hotel that punches above its grade, with rooms (some a little boxy) done out in dreamy creams and simple furnishings in the Ikea mould. The reception is minimal and breakfast involves heading around the corner to the 4 Latas restaurant, yet the setting is superb, overlooking the Sant Pere church. Insist on one of the doubles with wide windows that take in the view (B&B doubles from £74; hotel-centre-reus.vivehotels.com).

Corporate but good valueIf the assured services of a cookie-cutter corporate hotel are your bag, this is your place. It’s on a ring road and the decor won’t set Kelly Hoppen’s heart aflutter. That said, all is highly professional, it’s a lovely walk down streets of photogenic peeling façades to the Plaça del Mercadal and there’s endless fresh fruit, yoghurt, meats, cheeses and coffee for breakfast (B&B doubles from £84; nh-hotels.com).

Idyllic 12th-century estateWere this ochre estate in Tuscany, a weekend stay would surely cost twice the price. A ten-minute drive from the city centre, it’s an idyll of tall cypresses, with loungers around a sweet unheated pool. The newer wing, artfully aged, has rooms with balconies, while other guests might prefer something with wood-beamed character in the original farmhouse. Dinner brings serious service and wines from Boella’s ancient cellar (B&B doubles from £156; laboella.com).

New routes to Reus from Bristol, Gatwick and Newcastle (taking about two and a half hours) have been launched by easyJet over the past couple of months. Alternatively fly to Barcelona and take the bus (£16; busplana.com). The old town is compact and highly walkable; to get to Tarragona take a Monbus service from the main bus station (from £2 one way; monbus.es). 

Cyclists can rent bikes from outfits including Adventure Bike Rental (from £26 a day; adventure-bikerental.com). Venture beyond Reus along the gentle Ruta de l’Oli (“olive oil route”) over two or three days. The 30-mile loop takes in carob fields, horizons of hazelnut trees and olive groves, as well as attractive settlements including coastal Cambrils, with its palm-lined promenade and sandy beach.

Nick Redman was a guest of Spanish Tourism (spain.info). Fly to Reus

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